A major form of ethnic identity found in the Kuna community of eastern Panama is the mola textile. It is the vibrant and multi-layered appliqué material, draped to the blouses worn by the Kuna women. Molas are constructed using reverse appliqué technique, involving several layers of different colored cotton cloth and cutting through the layers to create designs. The original Mola designs were inspired by indigenous Kuna body painting. However, as the art developed, artists have incorporated geometric, flora, abstract fauna, and Kuna mythological designs into their Molas.
Molas are not an invention of pre-Columbian Kuna culture. The textile was developed approximately one hundred years ago when cotton material became available to the Kuna society. Although it is a recent cultural development, it exists as a strong symbol of their culture. Art museums have exhibits dedicated to these intricate and vivid abstract textile designs.
This is a good example of how culture changes and adapts. When I looked at the molas, my first impression was that the Kuna had been making these colorful cloths for centuries. So, I was completely surprised when you mentioned that the molas were only about 100 years old. Even in that short time, the designs have transitioned from copies of body art, to those with personal meanings for the creator, and finally to ones that have become commercially profitable for the Kuna.
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